Beach Bash 2014
Collins Bros
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Plano
    Posts
    1,025

    Question Stubborn O2 sensor removal

    I'm trying to remove an O2 sensor, downstream after the cat and it won't budge. Shot it with PB Blaster, should have probably waited longer, but now the hex bolt surface is a little tweaked since the o2 sensor socket slipped.

    Any suggestion on getting this off? Very little room to move as the sensor is on the top side of the pipe and control arms and frame seems to get in the way of a big breaker bar. Thought about cutting the head off the sensor and using a regular socket on it as the o2 sensor socket is split and allows a little give to let it slip. Don't want to do this and still not be able to get it off.

    2004 WJ Grand Cherokee Overland
    - 4.5" Rusty's Long Arm Lift+2" Spring Spacers
    - Toyo Open Country AT2 285/70R17
    - Fuel Boost 17x9 Wheels 5.5" bs

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Haslet, TX
    Posts
    361
    I know this may introduce a way to get burned just slightly, but have you tried running it for a few minutes to get the O2 sensor hot. It worked on my old S-10 blazer.


    "and then one day you find
    Ten years have got behind you
    No one told you when to run
    You missed the starting gun"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bristol
    Posts
    6,882
    Kroil.
    http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

    Or a mixture of acetone & ATF, which the acetone & ATF is the best penetrant.

    Otherwise heat the bung.
    2000 TJ, 4.0, NV4500, Atlas 4.3, Clayton LA 5" stretch, 4.5" AEV springs, JKS 1.250 BL, SWAG body mounts, Dynatrac Pro Rock 60's, 4.88, ARB, 36" IROKS, PSC steering with Hydro, 9k Superwinch, Metalcloak ft. fenders, Modified Rokmen sliders, Genright tub armor & rear fenders, Swracecars weld in sport cage, Extreme aire OBA, Homebuilt bumpers, recovery gear storage box & all skids.

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